What about litter boxes and food dishes?
Before bringing your new cat home, make sure that you already have the basic provisions it will need.
First, your cat must have access to a litter box. Cats are naturally fastidious, and most will instinctively use a litter box. The litter box can be simple or extravagant, but most cats prefer simple boxes without hoods. Keep in mind that kittens will need a box that's low enough for them to enter easily. Unscented, fine-textured litter is preferred by the majority of cats. At first, you will choose the type of litter and litter box; later, your cat may demonstrate its preferences. Be sure to keep the litter box and surrounding area clean, and change the litter frequently. Cats may avoid a litter-box area that isn't clean. Also, providing just one litter box may not be sufficient. Animal behaviorists suggest providing as many boxes as you have cats, plus one. For example, if you have two cats, you should have three litter boxes.
Your new cat also will need separate food and water dishes, kept far away from the litter-box area, to avoid contamination. It is important to keep the dishes clean, and the contents fresh. Cats may reject old food or stale water.
Will I need a scratching post? Because scratching on objects is a normal marking behavior for cats, it is difficult to stop or even curb. However, cats can be taught to claw appropriate objects like scratching posts. Once you've figured out your cat's preferred scratching materials and orientation, you'll be better equipped to buy a suitable scratching substitute. For example, if your cat likes to scratch on furniture, a vertical carpet-covered post might be a good choice. But a cat that likes the horizontal motion of scratching on a floor carpet may be more likely to use a flattened cardboard box or a log placed on its side. A cat that scratches on drapes would probably prefer a vertical post tall enough for a long stretch, such as those that mount on a wall or door. Take your cat to the new scratching area or object that you've approved, and reward the cat with treats, strokes, and praise for using it.
Grooming: Start early with your cat. The younger it is when you begin grooming it, the more pleasant grooming will be for it. A cat that fights grooming may need sedation and shaving at the vets for matted fur; it is well worth the time to get your cat to at least tolerate grooming. Start with short sessions. Stick to areas that it seems to enjoy (often the top of the head and around the neck) first, and work your way out bit by bit. Experiment a bit (and talk with your vet) to find the brush and routine that seems to work best with your cat. Even short-hair cats benefit from grooming: they still shed a surprising amount of hair despite its length.
Thick, long fur: Inexpensive pin-type (not the slicker type) dog brushes work well. You may choose to followup with a metal comb; if you use a flea comb, you will also detect any fleas your cat may have.
Silky long fur: Soft bristle brushes work well.
Short hair: Try an all-rubber brush, often sold as kitten or puppy brushes.
Bathing: You should not ordinarily need to bath a cat. Cats are normally very good about cleaning themselves, and for most cats, that's all the bathing they will ever need. Reasons for giving them a bath are: The cat has got something poisonous on its fur, It doesn't take care of its coat as normal cats do, You are allergic and need to bathe it to keep allergens down, The cat is a show cat and about to be shown, You are giving it a flea, tick, or lice dip, It is unusually dirty for some reason (perhaps bad weather).